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Block: surface bonding vs mortaring up
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Gravel Road
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14 Mar ’16 - 7:01 am
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Okay...met with mason yesterday.  Got lines strung for footers and talked over the build.  He asked me if I wanted to go dry stack for sure.  We talked about it.  His take on it is; he will do it any way I want. 

His thought was this: based on his experience, he can lay block faster with mortar.  Since we are pouring the cores of the 10inch block/vertical rebar every 4-5ft/ bond beam on top; that we are already overbuilding the 'day light' basement.  We both like the idea of surface bonding the inside/outside with surface bonding either way.  I know that the surface bonding works the best on dry stack, we would do it for the added water protection and smooth surface on the outside and for a finished wall inside...and to a lesser degree some added strength.

He is bringing in two masons he works with during the week (we are doing this on weekends).  The two guys get $25 cash/hour. 

Once we get footings in, three masons will be able to lay this up in about 3 days (6-7hr days).

Current thoughts:

-I got a good deal on price for masons that are quality guys..efficient at building with block.

-I spend more for mortar, but will have a course or two less of block and will need fewer block on each course due to mortar joints...not a total wash for material, but there will be increased speed mostly due to no fooling around with shimming and that laying mortared block is what they are experts at.

-Since we are doing bond beam/vertical rebar/pouring cores we still have a hell of a over built wall.

...So...I can go either way and still get the 'basement' that is more than strong enough, still look good, meet our overall needs and wants.  Since I am hiring the labor the dry stack is not as critical from a DIY point.

At this point (got a couple of weeks to finalize decision) I am leaning towards mortaring the joints.

---What are you thoughts/pros/cons???  I appreciate the feed back.

"The universe is wider than our views of it." -HDT
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K
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14 Mar ’16 - 8:58 am
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if the pricing is the same for materials and he can do it faster thus saving you money in labor, I would go with the mortar

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Gravel Road
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14 Mar ’16 - 9:19 am
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That's the way I am leaning...go with the mortar.

One nice thing about going with mortar is that they can put in the 'zig zag -ladder like' horizontal reinforcement...maybe it's called dura-wall?

I would save on the # of block per row due to mortar joints and I will save 2 full rows going up, due to mortar joints again...by time I add in sand and mortar mix it will be pretty close to a wash.

"The universe is wider than our views of it." -HDT
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K
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14 Mar ’16 - 9:45 am
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you are just using the sbc as a finished wall inside correct? Not furring and drywalling?

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Gravel Road
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14 Mar ’16 - 9:54 am
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Correct...it will be inside and out...but no furring out on the inside...I want that thermal mass.  We will just paint it.  So the 'finished' block walls mean I will be doing some limited surface mounted conduit on some electrical, but that is no big deal.

"The universe is wider than our views of it." -HDT
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K
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14 Mar ’16 - 10:03 am
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yeah, then I would surface bond it, can probably get away with a thinner skim coat since you are mortaring

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Gravel Road
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14 Mar ’16 - 8:27 pm
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Just recalculated block needed...went down by 220 block (mortar joints add up).  Okay, pretty happy with that. 

So pouring cores with the fiber glass mixed in, vertical rebar 4' o.c., dura-wall every 3rd course, and surface bonding also...almost sounds like overkill.

"The universe is wider than our views of it." -HDT
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icanreachit
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14 Mar ’16 - 9:21 pm
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Will you be able to pour all the way to the bottom course if you use mortar?

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