9 Feb ’15
Hessian said
I would suggest removing the bark and trimming. Using it for seafood or poultry would not be good if you do not. Even cleaning after a pulled pork would be a nightmare.As for the freezer ... it might kill some bugs. It might show checking, it will freeze moisture content.
Wood as you know is living for it's time both as a tree form and as a product.
Might I suggest pulling it from the freezer and starting to slowly sweat the wood. The goal is to get to a stable moisture content which allows for shrinking and contracting. If you put mineral oil on a piece of wood which has not been kiln dried or solar dried you might not like the results in 6 months to a year.
Here is a PDF on Mesquite and moisture content.
Hessian, as I mentioned the wood is fairly new/recently cut which means it has more moisture, right? Its basically green as you can see the yellow exterior. Should I let it dry for a few months? Thanks, again!
shazbot nanu nanu
21 Feb ’12
Do not soak the piece, soaking the piece will split it from drying problems. What you want to achieve is saturation of the surface.
Apply the oil in a plentiful fashion from a clean no lint rag. Remove all the excess after ten minutes. Since the wood will stain out if not applied in a consistent fashion.
Keep drenching and removing excess oil a couple of times.
I would suggest giving it more then a day or two to sweat.
21 Feb ’12
Sorry lost power yet again.
Mesquite dries uniformly on all axis which is good for you. I tend to leave high end furniture frames to rest in climate control through at least one season change. They are built with kiln dried wood. So to answer your question I would finish this one and pre-cut some slabs for projects 9 months to a year from now.
A 2" x 2" piece of wood from a tree which is a heavy water intake tree (like mesquite) can take up to a year to dry. Some of my burrs have been drying for 3-4 years now down on the coast. I tend to turn things (bowls) at 10% water content which is still considered green imo.
Below is a better explanation of how to do the oil. I suggest pouring the oil onto the rag instead of directly onto the wood though.
http://www.ehow.com/.....-wood.html
Instructions
-
- 1
Cover the mesquite slab with white vinegar. Rub vinegar in a circular motion onto the board so it is absorbed into the wood grain. White vinegar kills bacteria in the wood, creating a sterile cutting surface. Allow vinegar to dry completely into the wood.
- 2
Apply white vinegar to the cutting board one additional time. Work the vinegar into the grain in a circular motion with a rag. Wipe away excess liquid with a dry rag.
- 3
Pour on a light application of mineral oil over the wood and massage into the wood with a dry rag.
- 4
Remove excess oil from the surface with a dry rag. Apply mineral oil once a week to maintain a healthy wood cutting board
- 1
21 Feb ’12
Why not experiment then with a few slices. Pump out the current green one and oil it. See how it wears and how.
Pick up something like above and get used to the weight of the wood at different % of moisture levels. After I while you will know by feel / weight within a few %. This will help lots in the future and will help if you ever start buying wood.
I have not turned burrs in 4 years. I spent a bit of time the first year collecting cocobolo and a few other burrs. They are sitting in a barn kind of building covered in spiderwebs. Which means they are staying dry. They would be ready to turn this year but I am leaving soon. I waited to completely air dry and use for shaves and knife handles. Slices of a checkered burr basically.
Will probably do the same again in a few months. Collecting burrs for a few years down the road from now. I'm more likely to get back into turning spindles and stuff in the time being.
It is fun times anyways, wandering around with a good ladder and a chainsaw. There is two World class turners in my neighborhood here. What are the odds.
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