lets talk growing ginseng: re Appalachian Outlaws | Food Production and Preservation | Forums

KVR said
so I couldn't sleep last night and was flicking through the channels and came across appalachian outlaws on history channel, first moonshiners and now ginsengers.

But anyways, they were selling ginseng for up to 650 a pound, so i thought to myself, self, why not grow some, so I did some googling and found this

http://www.wikihow.c.....ow-Ginseng

1
Obtain any necessary permits or licenses to grow and sell ginseng. State regulations on growing ginseng vary, but you will often need special permits or licenses, especially if you are growing for commercial harvest. Research regulations for your area, and contact your local extension service or state agriculture or commerce departments to find out what you need to do to legally grow. You should also look into organic certification well before planting your seeds. The "wild-simulated" method as described here is organic.

2
Get land in the right place. If you want to grow ginseng using the "wild-simulated" method, you'll need to have land within the plant's natural range. In the U.S. ginseng grows in nearly every state east of or bordering the Mississippi River as well as in Oregon and Washington. Ginseng is not heat-tolerant, so in southern states it is usually found only in mountainous areas.

3
Select a suitable site. Ginseng grows best in well-shaded sites (especially north- or east-facing slopes) of moist hardwood forests, especially where tulip poplar, maple, beech, hickory, walnut, and, sometimes, oak trees are present. The more mature the forest (with large hardwood trees and a full canopy that shades out most shrubs, briars, etc.), the better, as a thick under story of smaller plants will over shade or out compete ginseng.
Probably the best way to determine if a site is appropriate is to look for wild ginseng growing there.

Since wild ginseng is so rare, you can also get some idea of suitability if "companion plants" such as trillium (Trillium s.p.p.), cohosh (Caulophyllum thalactroides-blue, Cimicifuga racemosa-black), jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema atrorubens), wild yam (Dioscorea villosa), goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis), and Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum) are present.
In addition, be aware that ginseng poachers are a serious problem: be sure to choose a spot that is hidden from public view and not near a hiking trail or roadway.

4
Get soil tests. The soil should be loamy, without excessive clay, and should be well-drained. When you have a site in mind, take several soil samples of equal quantity from around the site and mix them together in a plastic bucket. Bring the bucket to your local extension service office, land grant university or other testing site (contact these offices for more details on sampling) to have a soil analysis performed. While ginseng can grow in a variety of soil chemical compositions, (and there is some dispute over what conditions are necessary) the ideal pH for ginseng is about 4.5 to 5.5 (somewhat acid soil), and calcium levels should be about 4,000 pounds per acre. Phosphorus should be present in concentrations of at least 95 pounds per acre to encourage larger roots.

5
Fertilize if necessary. If you find a site that is perfect except for its soil chemistry, you may wish to amend the soil in the plot to adjust the pH or increase the quantities of phosphorus or calcium. The "wild-simulated" growing method demands no tilling be done to the soil, so simply apply the fertilizer to the surface of the soil. The soil pH may be raised by adding lime (calcium carbonate), and calcium level can be increased--without altering pH--by the addition of gypsum (calcium sulfate). If you’re trying to grow your plants organically, make sure whatever fertilizer options you choose are consistent with organic growing practices. The best option is not to fertilize at all, and the wide plant spacing recommended in this article may make soil amendments unnecessary even with less than ideal soil chemistry.

6
Order and pay for stratified ginseng seeds. When a ginseng plant produces seeds in the wild, the seeds do not sprout the following year. Instead, they require a year of stratification, a process in which the seeds lose the flesh of the berries that encase them and gain enough energy to sprout. Most ginseng seeds that you can purchase are stratified already, but "green" seeds are also available, often at half the price. Buy the stratified seeds—you won’t have to wait a year after planting for them to sprout—from a reputable grower, if possible one from your area.

7
Sow the seeds in the fall, after the leaves have fallen from the trees. Ginseng seeds must be sown in late fall or early winter, and planting should occur when the ground is moist, such as after a rain or snow. Space the seeds at least 14-18 inches (35-45 cm) apart. To plant, clear leaf debris and use a knife blade to verify that there are at least 2 inches (5 cm) of soil before you hit any layer of rock. Dig a small hole about 1/4 inch (6 mm) deep, drop a seed in the hole, and then close the hole, firmly press the soil down, and cover with up to 3 inches (15 cm) of the leaf debris.

8
Mark the plot discreetly or locate it using a GPS device. You’re not going to need to visit the site much, and the look of the forest can change a great deal over the 7+ years until your plants reach maturity, so make sure you can find them again. The best way to do this is to use a GPS device to determine the exact coordinates of the plot. This way you don’t leave any visible mark that might invite poachers. If you must mark the plot, make sure your markers don’t readily draw attention.

9
Wait. You'll need to wait about 7-10 years for your plants to mature, but with the right site and a little luck, growing ginseng with the wild-simulated method requires a lot of patience, but almost no maintenance. Periodically check the crop for pest or fungus problems, and have a soil analysis performed every year or two, particularly if you needed to amend the soil to begin with. Other than that, just let the plants grow as they would in nature. They will compete with other plants, and many will probably die, but the hardships that the "wild" plants endure are what give them their unique character and a price 10 or 20 times higher than cultivated ginseng.

10
Harvest mature plants. Given how long it takes ginseng to reach maturity, you’ll probably want to harvest your plants as soon as you can, but if you’re not in any hurry you can leave them in the ground for 10, 20, or 100 years and they can continue to grow.
Dig carefully so as not to damage the root. Use a pitchfork or needle-nose spade to dig under the plant, and leave plenty of space (about 6 inches or 15 cm) between the plant and where you push the pitchfork or spade into the ground. That said, be respectful of nearby plants and disturb them as little as possible. If the plant is close to immature ginseng plants, use a smaller implement such as a stout flat blade screwdriver about 8 or 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) long, and work with extra care. If there is any risk of damaging the roots of adjacent immature ginseng plants, do not attempt to harvest the plant.
Wash and dry the root(s). Briefly soak the roots in a bucket of cool water to remove excess soil. Then place the roots in a single layer on a wood tray (do not touch ginseng with metal) and wash them under a sink faucet or with a hose. Do not scrub them or wash them too vigorously—some of the medicinal chemicals are concentrated in the root hairs, and removal of these hairs will decrease the usefulness and value of the root. Make sure the roots are not touching and let them dry on a wooden rack in a well-ventilated room.

Tips
Once your plants begin to produce fruit, they will naturally reseed the plot each year, so you will have a truly sustainable crop. If you want to ensure a continuous crop, however, you can add seed in the first and second years, when your plants will not likely produce fruit.
Order and pay for seeds in the summer to be delivered in the fall. If you wait until fall, quantities will be limited, and you’ll be getting the dregs.
Proper spacing helps prevent fungus and disease problems. Although you may lose some plants to disease, you won’t likely lose them all as you might if they’re too close together. Companion plants such as goldenseal may also reduce pest and disease problems. If fungus gets out of hand, contact your local extension office for advice before breaking out the fungicide.
It’s hard waiting 7 years for any return on your investment, so after the first couple years, consider harvesting some of the leaves to make ginseng green tea, which is fetching increasingly high prices in natural foods stores. You can also collect and sell some of the seeds, either stratifying them yourself or selling them "green".
If ginseng seeds are allowed to dry out, they’ll die and be useless. You can verify the viability of a seed by dropping it in a dish of water. If it floats, it’s dry and dead.
The only pests you’ll have to worry about are deer and digging mammals, such as voles. Normal populations of deer likely won’t significantly damage your crop, but if overpopulation of deer is a problem in your area, consider using guard dogs. Because of the wide spacing in this method, digging mammals generally won’t be much of a problem either, but consider using traps (not poisons) and other organic deterrents if necessary.
Some farmers completely replace the top soil when planting a new crop. They even don't let the tractor tires contaminate new soil with traces of old soil, so they clean them.

Now I'm thinking to myself, where do I know of land on a slope, with loam, with oak, with large canopy?

the land we bought for the cabin, we're gonna be rich boys!

Seriously though, anyone have experience with this? If I start a patch this year and plant a new one for the next 10, could be a nice little income flow in the future

It isn't as complicated as they make it sound. It does however take a long time, and poaching can be a serious problem. I recommend buying stratified seeds. They are shipped at the right time for planting. You just scratch them into the ground as if they were coming off the plant and getting moved around by critters. 

WV has a ginseng growers association. Seeds can be bought in bulk for less money, and you have experienced folks to ask questions of. 

Some folks grow it intensively in beds either in a wooded area or under shade cloth. This cultivated variety is more prone to disease and much less valuable and takes a lot more work. 

I think there is a big ginseng farm somewhere in Wisconsin that grows it this way.

the roots of cultivated and wild simulated ginseng look different and an experienced buyer can tell the difference. 

I am totally fascinated with this plant.