For the connoisseurs of a condiment made in California by an eccentric former farmer-turned major in the South Vietnamese Army, these are worrying times. On Friday, a judge is due to decide the fate of the factory where David Tran makes Sriracha hot sauce, pitting locals who claim its fumes have made them sick against a global community of foodies whose spice receptors go into spasms of delight at the very mention of its name.
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