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6 Oct ’15
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We have already decided on pouring the cores...for added strength and thermal mass...I might even pay the extra $12 a yard for the fiber glass additive in it.
The only two things that we haven't decided on for the walls are:
1) do a bond beam part way up, rather than just at the top (due to window heights we could not do a continuous beam after 2 feet up in some areas of the front, but a partial one would still add strength, just don't think we need it.
2) and if needed we will lay a course of block with a thin mortar joint about 4 to 7 courses up if things start getting to far out of plumb/level.
K, did you use all end blocks (flush on the sides) or runner blocks (ears on the sides)...I am guessing a mix of each?
15 Feb ’12
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I wouldn't worry about the fiber for the cores, just tell them you want the same mix as ICF's which uses more of a pea gravel so it flows all the way to the bottom, it will be pretty wet as well. You'll look down through and see the openings and think there is no way it is going to glow all the way down, but you will quickly see that it does when the water starts weaping.
We used both and just the end blocks at the corners and terminations for the openings.
6 Oct ’15
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Okay...Speed said the flush blocks stacked a lot better (top to bottom and side to side). He also thought the white surface bonding went on better and was easier to work with (price is the same for grey or white here), I will go with white.
I am a little concerned even with a wet mix that it will get all the way down to the bottom, since our blocks are 10's not 12's.
Did you vibrate your cores? or just pour them?
My thought was that once we are up 3-5 courses (with the bonding cement on) we will be pouring the floor, just easier to get the tuck in and place the concrete...at that time maybe fill those first few course of block and on that last course only about half way up with #4 rebar sticking up a couple of feet every 3 to 4 ft along the wall....this would ensure that the bottoms are full and secure for the rest of the wall build.
How many courses did you go up for the first floor? I am planning it so I can use just one 8ft sheet of XPS from the top of the bond beam to the top of the footer...no way am I going to put in a short strip to make it 'work' for a higher wall.
15 Feb ’12
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I tried ordering just end blocks but they wouldn't do it, I had to order a full flat bed tractor trailer from the factory. We didn't vibrate them, just dropped rebar every 6 feet or so and at the corners.
We went with 11 courses, cut a bond beam in the 4th and 11th course.
6 Oct ’15
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I can get the end blocks by the pallet...not a problem since they are made about 20 miles away and my 'shirt tail' cousin owns a mason supply house...they will do it because of him...not so eager to do it just for me.
Would you have gone with just end blocks if you could have got them that way at a reasonable cost?
15 Feb ’12
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Yes I would have. Like speed said, the end blocks are more square and true, should take a lot less shimming and leveling. Some of the shimming I had to do scared the hell out of me.
6 Oct ’15
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...did you have to shim like a 1/4 inch or more?
...what did you use for shims? nickles?
15 Feb ’12
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I would say there was quite a few close to that, it's part of the reason we filled the cores for extra peace of mind.
I just cut 1 inch squares out of a roll of coil stock and then stacked them, it allowed me to get pretty accurate with level.
you can see me starting a shim in the lower left corner on our smokehouse.
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