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5 Mar ’12
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Electrical roughed in and inspected. Starting to prime before painting to match the house. Budget is running out and I don't even have it sheathed and insulated on the inside let alone with the lean-to's built on and roofed. I woke up to it being ~45 degrees today. I am trying to work overtime before winter is here!
15 Feb ’12
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we got 2 cords of firewood yesterday and started stacking it, not happy about that at all!
5 Mar ’12
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I need to split more wood. I have dried oak rounds from last year just waiting to be split -- haven't found the time yet.
The whole barn is now primed. I was out last night with a headlamp on finishing it up. That wasn't fun, but hopefully painting it, with a color that matches the stain of our house, will really make it look a lot nicer. I am thinking that when I build the lean to's on I am going to rip off the black shingles and put on matching green steel roof so that it is a dead ringer for the house.
15 Feb ’12
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that's going to look sweet, when I work at night, my wife makes me redo everything in the morning lol
5 Mar ’12
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K, the plan is to put 2 outdoor light sconces on either side of the roll up door and then cedar shingle that whole wall. Got any tips for installing the shingles? Is it just felt and leave 5" of a shingle exposed? Stain them first? etc.
15 Feb ’12
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I would stain after, we've tried both methods and didn't find doing it before hand any better, plus we used more stain
figure out ant you want for spacing, 4-6 inches is normal and build a jig like we did for the barn and coop
double your bottom course and the lip on the bottom of the jig butt up to the bottom of your starter course and just start shingling
goes much faster than using a chalk line
5 Mar ’12
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I think I am slow -- do you just hold the jig up and nail the shingles in with the bottom touching the to of the jig? What is the big gap for on the bottom of the jig board?
15 Feb ’12
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just nail it into side to hold it up, we just used scrap t&G pine to make ours, we ripped down the long top piece so we had a 2 inch wide flat edge piece about 4 foot long with the groove and then used the two small pieces of scrap on the ends to give us the reveal we wanted, then just nail a small piece on the bottoms to create a lip on the bottom to grab the bottom of the previous shingles
I would take the shorter of the distances between the left and right side of the door and make a jig that long, you should be able to work around the whole building with minimal moving, would have to hand nail the end with the garage door though, or make the end pieces as wide as the gaps are on each side of the garage door, do that side last and just cut the ends off the jig and then use them as a guide to do those spaces
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