6 Oct ’15
K...some where out west...can't remember which state...but to legally post they used to be able to paint fence posts/trees on property line purple...less expensive to do and no one can rip your signs down...even the tyvek signs are getting pricey...aluminum and hard plastic ones are ridiculous too.
I have worked with Voss Signs...family owned, good quality, they will make it right...the customer is everything to them.
http://www.vosssigns.....d/plastic/
K, going with surface bonding all the way, grouting cores with vertical re-bar every 4-5 feet, reinforced bond beam at top. Debating on adding bond beam a few course up???
My mason friend thinks we should mortar and surface bond...I explained to that would weaken the wall and why...also he such a traditionalist that he has a hard time believing that the sheer strength of surface bonding is about 6-7 times stronger than mortared block...he did make one good point about strength not being much of an issue with reinforced and grouted 10 inch block with a bond beam. The other thing we are concerned about how square the block are and shimming...I know some have used a thin mortar joint of surface bonding once they are several course up to plumb/level the wall...any thoughts on that??? A lot will depend on the blocks...I know one factor is how new/old the molds are...newer ones have very crisp edges.
One thing I want to do is wire in some short 'L' shaped rebar from the footing rebar...to go up the core of the block...I think it will be a major pain with the lay out while pouring and a lot of time...my other option would be to just hammer drill the footing and epoxy in the vertical rebar...not as strong...but faster...and slab will be like yours, it will come up over the footing on the inside.
...one good thing in my area is they have bond blocks as stock and they know what they are...can't imagine the pain of making them and burning through a saw.
K...did you use 10" block?
...and I thought in your 3 yr review you would have pinned the wall to the footer?
Thanks!
we used 12 inch block, couldn't find bond beam block anywhere so we made our own, used a diamond tipped blade and made shallow cuts and knocked them out with a sledge
for leveling the blocks I used small metal shims that I cut from a roll of coil stock, I probably went through thousands of those things. Here is a project we did a few years ago that shows how I addressed the pinning issue.
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