5 Mar ’12
I think pole mounts are off the table just due to expense and having to build an additional structure, move the existing shed, etc.
The thing is, and I think we will see more of this as more and more people get panels, is the complexity of mounting them. I have 6 panles right now which are about 90 square feet of surface area. That is a lot to mount. Well I want to double that. So now I have 180 sqft of panels to mount. If you look at pricing for some of these pole mounts that can support 90 or even 180 sqft the price goes to about $1k to $3k respectively. That is insane - it doesn't include the pole, the electrical, concrete, etc. -- it's just a metal mount that goes on top of a pole.
If I only had 1, 2, maybe 3 panels to mount I could fab up a pole mount pretty easily but when you have 180 sqft (12 panels) you either need a huge base due to wind making the panels act as a sail or it on a ground/roof mount. I could "bubba" something but it would probably break, destroying all my solar panels.
hey pork, one of our facebook followers just signed up, he might have some ideas for you, his is more of a pole mount system, but brainstorming is good, I want to hear more how he doesn't use a charge controller
Share with the world.......Tested by time : 7 years, Wind 60 MPH - never popped in the air! Details: two T-Post in the rear. 4 X4 rails with holes routed in the tops for slipping onto posts, and wiggle room for seasonal adjustments. Hose Clamps or wire round and round the post under the 4 x 4 to keep Frame secure. Frame is 4 x 4's held by three 2 x 2's. Ratchet strap holds panel (these are 3 circa 1975 panels) to frame and 1 x 4 scraps keep bottom of panel from shifting. Just add Sun!........We do not use a charge controller on this, wired straight into two deep cycle batteries seen in window sill. 12 gauge wire is closed in the window - never crimped or heated up. We are always here, and use the power to keep the batteries from over-bubbling. Your mileage may vary! We can run a small NON-efficient fridge on these on bright summer days, lights, laptops, DSL etc, etc in other times.
5 Mar ’12
So I am resurrecting this thread because I think we are going to move the barn in a month or two. I called a local shed place that builds and delivers them in the area and they would only charge ~$150 to $200 to move the barn (!!!!!!!). I consider than a done deal.
The original plan stands -- build a small solar shed (probably tiny) and move the large shed/barn over to the house -- just like the first post. I will add lean-to's on the long sides of the barn for covered parking. This will save us a ton of money vs. building or buying something new.
I've got a few trees to start cutting down and yanking the stumps out with the Ranger. I love new projects.
4 Mar ’12
I really like the A frame solar sheds. looks like a great idea. I was going to suggest a towing company move the shed for you. But wasn't sure how far out you live and if there would be someone who could help you. Glad you found someone. It's really the best way to go.
Make sure they are insured. Just in case........
5 Mar ’12
Yeah, I need to call the company back and check on the insurance part. This is built on runners but they are 12' long treated 4x4 posts that are butted up against each other to make the 24' length. Then the 2x6 treated floor is built on top of that and secured to the runners via nails (I don't think straps). I want to make sure they can pull it without too much drama due to the non-continuous runner.
If we rolled it on PVC or something similar the whole way it would be fine but be harder and probably cost more $$. They pull it with a Mule shed mover and put wheels on the opposite end. I wonder if they scooted them in from the far edges to more in the middle of the second 12' 4x4 runner then it would be OK. Any engineers in the house?
Mule:
For my case, the wheels here would need to be moved closer to the middle of the shed -- I think.
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